Today was our first French market experience. Around 10 a.m. we wandered down to the main village square to a myriad of vendors selling all sorts of meats, vegetables, fruit, eggs, as well as homemade jellies, jams and several items pickled in goose grease. Not to mention aisles and aisles of stands selling jewelry, clothing, hand-me down type items like second-hand books and dishes as well as hand-sewn linens, soaps, woven baskets and more.
Fresh pearsThe market did not just take over the central square but the entire city of Sarlat, including its narrow stone-walled alleyways. People filled the streets, shuffling from stand to stand, oohing and ahhing and bargaining for the best price on fish, eggs and pigeon meat. Most people were French, chattering softly to each other, with small dogs in tow. The second largest group were tourists--British and French tourist families and older couples. The children's faces were smeared with ice cream and pastry and they ran from vendor to vendor, running sticky fingers over fabrics and pottery while begging for a stuffed bear or more candy. Their tired parents lagged behind, toting backpacks and water bottles, pointing out the prices on fresh fruit and vegetables.
Debbie with garlicToday was one of the first days I actually felt like things in France were affordable. I bought two white-fleshed nectarines for 67 cents, a crusty baguette for 80, as well as a large container of sweet-smelling strawberries for only two Euros.
Many small towns throughout the Dordogne region live on these markets. Most villages don't have supermarkets and so the townspeople do their shopping twice a week when farmers drive their vans in, filled with their freshest wares.
Me in front of La LanterneAfter exploring nearly every market stand, my mom and I headed back to La Lanterne, the little bed and breakfast where we are staying in Sarlat. Now I must do a shameless plug for La Lanterne merely because our stay here has been so great. (Not that our other hotels weren't wonderful--they just seem to be getting better and better as we head south.)
Debbie with FrodoLa Lanterne is run by a British couple, Terri and Roy. They moved to Sarlat five years ago and bought a little house nestled into the alley behind the cathedral and had it completely remodeled. While the place is absolutely charming, complete with a private courtyard filled with flowers and little resident dog named Frodo, what makes this place so perfect are the British hosts. They will truly bend over backward for their guests. As we relaxed in the courtyard, Terri chatted with us about dogs and Roy gave me a French cooking magazine to poke through. This evening as my mom and I wandered around Sarlat, trying to choose from one of the seemingly hundred cafes for dinner, we ran into Roy who then walked with us, pointing out the good restaurants, as well as the best items on the menu. And of course, they both help us in such a pleasing British accent that makes everything even more perfect.
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I hope Bridget doesn't see this article. She is really going to think she has been replaced. Thanks for the lovely commentary of yor travels. I love checking up where your day brings you two.
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