Debbie writes:
"Today we set off for the Chateaus. Beautiful country. We saw Chateau Loches (but not inside), Amboise (beautiful, on a hill, looks over a river), and Roche D'Azay, and D'Usse (but that was too expensive to go inside, but it looks like Sleeping Beauty's castle!) We had a great pig-out at a bakery at Chenonceaux (another chateau). The pastry was fantastic. Also at Amboise, we had an ice cream sundae in the cutest little ancient ice cream pastry shop..."
Thirty-one years later, my mom is back in the Loire Valley but this time she is more focused on the chateaux than on French pastries. Don't get me wrong, French pastry is delicious, and my mom and I constantly indulge in pain au chocolat (a pastry with chocolate) and, of course, la glace (ice cream). A lot of my mom's journal entries in the Loire Valley read like a menu describing gastronomic delights: flaky pastries, nutty, chocolate sundaes, and waffles topped
with whipped cream and berries. Scattered here and there are descriptions of beautiful, Disney-like castles.
We left the chateau this morning, after the usual lovely French breakfast. (The French just know how to do food right: fresh baked croissants and baguettes with red currant jam, natural yogurt topped with fresh fruit and steaming cups of coffee. Perfect.) This time I drove.
As I crossed through fields following a winding countryside road I could not get over the fact that I was driving in France. It was just such an odd sensation. This time my mom sat and pointed things out the window, watching dancing fields of wheat, corn and sunflowers go passing by.
The Loire Valley is filled with chateaux--literally they are only a few miles apart. Little farming towns encircle the base of each chateau. I marvel at all the little stone cottages, some that share a wall with the towering castles. I can't help but wonder how long it takes to get used to living in the shadow of a 15th century landmark. Do these village residents ever marvel over the history of the gorgeous architecture in their backyard?
ChenonceauxOur first chateau was Chamont (it's right across the river from our hotel). Chamont is a "small chateau" and was given to one of the French king's mistresses after he died and the queen wanted the bigger chateau--Chenonceaux. (Keeping the lives of French royalty straight is like trying to keep up with a soap opera. The love interests constantly change.)
We then headed for Chenonceaux, the famous chateau that sits on a river (built for above mistress). The castle is built out of pure white sandstone and sits at the end of a long drive, bordered by ancient trees. The grounds are immaculate and include three gardens filled with perfect topiaries and beds of wild colored buds. It is truly amazing.
Just as in 1978, my mom and I ordered pastry while there. It wasn't a pastry "pig-out" per se, but the dessert was still delicious: a little rounded cube with flaky, buttery layers and large chunks of dark chocolate.
After getting our fill on pastry, (and quiche), we headed to the fortified city of Amboise and its chateau. Built in the 11th century, it's one of the oldest in the Loire Valley, hosting the French court and its guests for many years. Leonardo da Vinci was the artist in residence there during the final years of his life and is buried in the small chapel beside the chateau, as was his wish.
I think I'm getting used to France now. My mom says it feels like we've been here forever but at the same time, our first week has sped by. We're getting used to hearing French (as well as Italian and German) and now hearing English is odd--especially American-accented English. The little charms of France (or little irritations, if you will), are beginning to grow on us: the narrow, winding roads that barely fit one car, the tolls (and therefore perfectly-maintained roads), as well as the all the expenses (yes, sometimes you have to pay to use the toilets). The only thing that we miss are a few people that we've left behind in Washington.
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